More eats

Ord Noodle (Thai Town)
Somewhere in a cave in northern Thailand, or maybe in some monastery, or maybe in a Bangkok prostitute's suitcase is a secret box containing the recipes for the first two noodle dishes at Ord Noodle. At least that's how I imagine it. "Number one dry, and number two wet." Or maybe it's the other way around. That's the way I order when I don't mistakenly order the less transcendent sukiyaki instead. Medium spice, which is usually more than enough. Taken apart the dishes are micro-repositories of complex spices, sensation-inducers and flavors that might be allowed to speak for a country if an ambassador was busy. Together, they're pretty much the Thai version of McCartney and Lennon. Order a Thai iced tea, sit back in the Eames chairs, and wander around the collage of pictures on the wall. Don't worry about taking it all in the first time as you'll probably be back.

Wahoo's (Everywhere)
Where I head when I don't really want to make a decision. Nothing really brilliant, just clean tasting fish burritos and tacos with a rice and white bean option you should definitely exercise. I'm guessing the skatecore/polaroid design scheme would have been nice when I was 12. Now it's kind of whatever.

El Parian (Los Angeles)
I can be kind of a pussy when it comes to certain foods. I'll try congealed blood cubes. Or grasshoppers. Probably even cow testicles if the opportunity arose. But there's something about dishes that seem to cross way past the far frontiers of heart healthy that pushes me away. The birria at El Parian, cuts of goat drowning in a large bowl of liquid, artery clogging, fat droppings, is one of those. I opted instead for the goat tacos, a seemingly healthy alternative of kid laid out with cilantro and onion on perfectly crafted tortillas with radish on the side. Maybe I saved a few minutes off my life. Maybe not. Was it worth it? Maybe I should ask my friend Will, who actually had the balls to try the real stuff.

My other holiday trip.

PCH: Ragged Point to Monterey

Mostly awesome shit from the trip:
1. View from Ragged Point.
2. Heated floors, oatmeal soap and generally awesome aesthetic at Glen Oaks Inn, Big Sur.
3. View of Point Sur.
4. 17 Mile Drive, Pebble Beach, Carmel by the Sea
5. Monterey Bay Aquarium
6. Fish Tacos and Enchiladas at Big Sur Roadhouse
7. Walking in the rain with the redwoods at Big Sur National Park
8. Iron Maiden Pub-picture of Vince Neil on the wall
9. Elephant seals near Hearst Castle

Less than awesome shit from the trip:
1. Cannery Row-While the neighborhood above is kinda charming and affords a nice view of the bay, the old Steinbeck haunt is basically what you would expect: Bubba Gump Shrimp, Starbucks, mini-malls.
2. Most of the food I ate
3. Carmel by the Sea-Kind of like a Thomas Kinkade painting that threw up and became a town. Thomas Kinkade has some sort of national archive in neighboring Monterey. Honest.

GOOFIN'

1.The Stranger on the full aural experience that is Tokyo.

2.The NYTimes on food markets.

3.NG takes you around the world in 80 books.

4.One of the greatest travel films ever (I know because I saw it) c/o Werner Herzog

More Food in LA

Foo Foo Tei (Hacienda Heights)
Foo Foo Tei is located on a cold palisade of concrete walls and sparse vegetation. It's one of the ugliest streets I've seen since my day stranded in Needles, CA. Somehow it just happens to contain two of my favorite restaurants in LA. If you get to Foo Foo Tei a bit early you might beat the crowds. If not, get ready to wait awhile. Inside, florescent lights and wooden paddles displaying the ramen selections function partially as ambiance, but the real aesthetic is provided by the parade of Japanese Americans-businesspeople and families on weekdays, baseball players, families, and couples on the weekends-huddled over giant steaming bowls of ramen. Aside from the noodles they come for simple dishes of grilled salmon, mackerel and squid, bowls of rice and eel, fried tofu, all waiting to be dressed with massive amounts of the chopped garlic that sits on each table.

Wa (Hollywood)
Started by Matsuhisa expats from what I’ve read, Wa seems to take inspiration from the same Tokyo/Lima pipeline. Wear black, bring an I-phone and acquire a few friends in the industry if you want to blend in. The sushi is fine, though nothing that really gets me excited for the price I paid. Of course, this likely says more about my bank account at the time than it does about the quality of the fish here. I really enjoyed the ceviche, soaked in a savory, cilantro touched pool, served in a martini glass.

Pinkberry (Everywhere)
Pinkberry encapsulates the experience of the sleek and pristine Tokyo healthy yogurt emporium—from the trademark scent that greets you to the minimalist design to the overpriced trinkets that line the shelves—as well as anything I’ve seen outside of Tokyo. Needless to say (I guess), they also seem intent on mimicking the prices. I’m one of those who buy into the scam completely.

Euro Pane (Pasadena)
I’m fairly confident I’ll never see a more effective horror film than The Exorcist. I doubt I’ll ever read a better book than Moby Dick. And I doubt I’ll ever see a better drummer than Hamid Drake. I’m also pretty sure I’ll never enjoy an order of French Toast more than the offering at Pasadena’s Euro Pane. It’s really hard to describe what it is that makes it what it is, although I think it comes down to its texture: grainy in a way and simultaneously delicate, moist but not at all damp. Each piece dissolves in your mouth. What else is there to eat? Flaky croissants with suitably strong coffee, frittata’s and the pear pastries that I order every once in awhile when the French Toast is sold out.

Palm Thai Restaurant (Hollywood)
Not the first place I would go to get Thai food but definitely the first I would go on a Friday night at 10ish to get papaya salad and steamed fish while being serenaded by a Thai Elvis.

Eating LA

Machos Tacos (Los Feliz)
A five minute walk from Machos Tacos takes you to Frank Lloyd Wright's warm, beige, brick ode to the West, the Hollyhock House, complete with a panning view of the LA metro valley. A thirty minute uphill climb takes you to Wright's Ennis Brown House, a toweringly dramatic behemoth of a fortress, built with immense stone bricks, that looks like it might fit in more in 1115 AD Guatemala, and offers an even more ridiculously entrancing view of LA. Both look more like temples than houses. On the way up to the latter you'll likely site innumerable multi-million dollar homes, from expensive haciendas with Spanish tiles, to charming little alpine wannabes with thatched roofs and fairy tale chimneys, to sleek, ultramodern creations of geometry possibly populated by androids. And if you still want more, there's a nice view of Griffith Observatory from the intersection of Los Feliz and Catalina.

Machos Tacos, on the other hand, is not much to look at, at first at least. Sitting on the corner of Vermont and Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz, the stand counts as its neighbors a car wash that's so close you suspect it's operated under joint ownership, a Starbucks across the street, and a wave of strip malls. You place your order after looking at what amounts to a relatively large menu, perched above the order window, that includes a long list of burritos, tacos and combination dinners (arriving with rice, beans, guacamole, and sour cream). At first glance, while taking money out of a caddy corner Bank of America, I thought I would have to grab my food and be on my way. A short twist around the counter, though, revealed a somehow tranquil courtyard submerged below a trellis of flowers. Somehow, with traffic whizzing by and a steady stream of noise from the car wash, I found a certain calm and enjoyed a dense, doughy burrito, stuffed to an extent that it easily ripped and spilled a well cooked stew of beans, cheese, carrots, chicken and onions onto my plate. Not that burritos are meant to be eaten with forks. But I made an exception for this one.

Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa (San Gabriel Valley)
Broken rice is such a scam. What functions as peasant food in Southeast Asia, tiny shards of rice discarded from the rest of the pack for their truncated qualities and sold at a lower premium, is actually more expensive than their fully formed counterparts in the USA. Kind of like paying more for health food. This being said, the chicken with broken rice dish at Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa is a moderately and appropriately oily, suitably spiced lunch or dinner option that I have paid extra for on at least two occasions. And I'll have no issues doing so again.

Zankou (Hollywood, Pasadena)
The mutabal at Zankou is in its own league among the adequate menu of wraps, plates and side items. It may be my favorite single item in LA, at least in the realm of things I would most want to have an endless bowl of as I watch a football game. There's a characteristic smokiness to the product that begs the question of why the owners don't offer a complimentary beer the same way a snooty pub might with good cheese. The chicken wraps, coated with just the right amount of a suitably potent garlic sauce are pretty good as well. As are the pickles. And the tabouli. But make sure you try the mutabal.

Ebisu (Little Tokyo)
Ebisu is a sub-city of Tokyo (or maybe Tokyo is a meta-city partially composed of Ebisu) in which, a short walk from the central train station, one finds a more than adequate collection of tastefully shy nightspots tucked in little streets that wrap like dragons, signaled by glowing lanterns and word of mouth, restaurants that hover when you walk by. Ebisu, the restaurant, is nothing like this. Gaudy fish adorn the walls. The centerpiece is a 12 foot ship replica that functions as a table setting for a rectangular table. And the food is...just ok: all too creamy California rolls seemingly devoid of avocado, cold and sterile steamed broccoli and carrots served as part of the dish, decent grilled salmon, and a monstrous, table-consuming sampler boat that was perhaps a good example of the lack of wisdom in trying to do too much...chicken, beef, tempura, salad, vegetables, and sushi. I was kind of puzzled by meal's end.

In n Out
In n Out, outside of California, holds the sort of reverence that is reserved for the Goo Goo clusters and the Olympia's of the world, cheap and convenient regional thrills that are essential parts of any visit to anywhere that you can get it. In an aspiring foodie mind, In n Out becomes a sensual fever dream of carnivorous delight, forever displacing any desires for the bourgeois McDonalds, Burger King, Checkers, or even Milo's, if you've ever spent any time in Birmingham, AL. At least that's how I felt in the years leading up to my first visit. In retrospect, I kinda wonder what all the fuss was about. I can see the appeal, in some ways: a clean and streamlined operation that produces a clean, streamlined burger with a grilled onion option, cholesterol free fries, and a cute little half open package for the burger. We eat with our eyes, or our brains, right? But is In n Out really any tastier than the triumph of minimalism found in the Wendy's Double Stack. The food is fine but, in a world without fat and cholesterol, it's very possible I'd take a Double Stack. And I would certainly rather Milo's.

La Huarachito (Lincoln Heights)
Mexican greasy spoon on Broadway. The kind of sunny, urban, well-trafficked spot that you're quite sure, upon the first look inside, local Mexican families approve of. Framed culturescapes of Mexico adorn the walls and they might be called tacky if they weren't so unbelievably right. Tacos arrive with the regular garnish of cilantro and tiny, diced onions on smog colored tortillas. Plates are pretty standard, but a nice lunch nonetheless.

HK

Just caught the Murakami exhibit at MOCA in LA. Completely worth it if you live here. This was particularly awesome.